Cattleya, are the classic "chocolate box" orchid with their large, perfumed and flamboyant blooms. They were the earliest of the showy, tropical orchids to be grown and flowered in cultivation. Originating in Central and South America, and named in honour of the English horticulturist William Cattley.
The first was Cattleya labiata, introduced from the forests of Brazil in 1818, they very quickly became a part of the Victorian world, as a stunning display plant grown in glass greenhouses and private collection and as a fashion accessories for wealthy ladies on the High Street.
Cattleyas form part of a huge alliance comprising many other closely related orchids, the best know of the natural genera are Laelia, Brassavola, Sophronitis, Encyclia, Epidendrum, Broughtonia. These, and many others have been widely interbred for nearly 200 years to produce the colossal range of variously sized flowers that is available. The species in the alliance originate from various regions of Central and South America, and in the genus Cattleya alone there are about 50 species, with new species discovered and the list updated every year.
Many of the species are becoming quite rare in the wild, and special programs to rebuild their ecosystems are in place, on many occasions they are first grown in cultivars or private collections to the stage they will be able to survive in the nature and then monitored.
Hybrids however can be counted in their thousands, and range from miniature plants containing species of the diminutive Sophrontitis, mostly with brightly coloured flowers in the shade of orange, yellow and reds to large, pawn sized, frilled flowers of the Brassavola crosses.
Throughout the 200 years of hybridization many beautiful hybrids has come and gone, and even more has been lost to time and forgotten because they went out of fashion or their production was stopped.
The most known of these man-made crosses and used in the orchid world are (with the established old nomenclature) :
B. = Brassavola (incl. Rhyncholaelia)
Bc. = Brassocattleya (Brassavola x Cattleya)Blc. = Brassolaeliocattleya (Brassavola x Cattleya xLaelia)C. = CattleyaEpi. = EpidendrumEpic. = Epicattleya (Cattleya x Epidendrum)Enc. = Encyclia (wird in Hybriden als Epidendrumgeführt)L. = LaeliaLc. = Laeliocattleya (Laelia x Cattleya)Pot. = Potinara (Brassavola x Cattleya x Laelia xSophronitis)Sc. = Sophrocattleya (Cattleya x Sophronitis)Sl. = Sophrolaelia (Laelia x Sophronitis)Slc. = Sophrolaeliocattleya (Cattleya x Laelia xSophronitis)
When more than three genera are involved in the crossing the name given to the resulting cross is personalized to one individual, however making it less clear on the label but easier to remember. In example Potinara, which is the result of crossing Brassavola, Cattleya, Laelia and Sophronitis, which on this ocassion makes it much, much easier to even say the name of the actual plant!
Among the Cattleya alliance are two very distinctive groups, these are uni-foliate plants which have one leaf, and bi-foliate which have two (or more) leafs. All Cattleyas are evergreen meaning they don't loose foliage for winter or dry period, the only time they loose leaf if when they shed a occasional back-leaf from an old backbulb. Now this specie difference is very important and well defined particularly in their flowers. With the uni-foliate species, the flowers stun with their size and beauty with a large variety of colours from pink and yellow to rose and blue-ish lavender. However the bi-foliate present smaller flowers, with waxy and fleshy petals and sepals and much simpler lip. The colours are in the shades of maroon, brown, deep reds and in greens usually heavily spotted with beautiful patterns.
The first was Cattleya labiata, introduced from the forests of Brazil in 1818, they very quickly became a part of the Victorian world, as a stunning display plant grown in glass greenhouses and private collection and as a fashion accessories for wealthy ladies on the High Street.
Cattleyas form part of a huge alliance comprising many other closely related orchids, the best know of the natural genera are Laelia, Brassavola, Sophronitis, Encyclia, Epidendrum, Broughtonia. These, and many others have been widely interbred for nearly 200 years to produce the colossal range of variously sized flowers that is available. The species in the alliance originate from various regions of Central and South America, and in the genus Cattleya alone there are about 50 species, with new species discovered and the list updated every year.
Many of the species are becoming quite rare in the wild, and special programs to rebuild their ecosystems are in place, on many occasions they are first grown in cultivars or private collections to the stage they will be able to survive in the nature and then monitored.
Hybrids however can be counted in their thousands, and range from miniature plants containing species of the diminutive Sophrontitis, mostly with brightly coloured flowers in the shade of orange, yellow and reds to large, pawn sized, frilled flowers of the Brassavola crosses.
Throughout the 200 years of hybridization many beautiful hybrids has come and gone, and even more has been lost to time and forgotten because they went out of fashion or their production was stopped.
The most known of these man-made crosses and used in the orchid world are (with the established old nomenclature) :
B. = Brassavola (incl. Rhyncholaelia)
Bc. = Brassocattleya (Brassavola x Cattleya)Blc. = Brassolaeliocattleya (Brassavola x Cattleya xLaelia)C. = CattleyaEpi. = EpidendrumEpic. = Epicattleya (Cattleya x Epidendrum)Enc. = Encyclia (wird in Hybriden als Epidendrumgeführt)L. = LaeliaLc. = Laeliocattleya (Laelia x Cattleya)Pot. = Potinara (Brassavola x Cattleya x Laelia xSophronitis)Sc. = Sophrocattleya (Cattleya x Sophronitis)Sl. = Sophrolaelia (Laelia x Sophronitis)Slc. = Sophrolaeliocattleya (Cattleya x Laelia xSophronitis)
When more than three genera are involved in the crossing the name given to the resulting cross is personalized to one individual, however making it less clear on the label but easier to remember. In example Potinara, which is the result of crossing Brassavola, Cattleya, Laelia and Sophronitis, which on this ocassion makes it much, much easier to even say the name of the actual plant!
Among the Cattleya alliance are two very distinctive groups, these are uni-foliate plants which have one leaf, and bi-foliate which have two (or more) leafs. All Cattleyas are evergreen meaning they don't loose foliage for winter or dry period, the only time they loose leaf if when they shed a occasional back-leaf from an old backbulb. Now this specie difference is very important and well defined particularly in their flowers. With the uni-foliate species, the flowers stun with their size and beauty with a large variety of colours from pink and yellow to rose and blue-ish lavender. However the bi-foliate present smaller flowers, with waxy and fleshy petals and sepals and much simpler lip. The colours are in the shades of maroon, brown, deep reds and in greens usually heavily spotted with beautiful patterns.
The plants produce quite elongated or club-shaped psudobulb, often covered with a protective sheath while young, with usually stiff and fleshy leaves. The flowers are produced from the apex of the pseudobulb, usually covered in a protective sheath which will dry out and split to allow the steam grow and evolve. However every type of the Cattleya will show different blooming behaviours, some may produce a sheath that will dry out but not produce flowers but after a long time a flower buds may start re-evolving within the sheath if undisturbed, or the sheath will be to hard for the flowers to break and may require manual help. There are also these types of Cattleya hybrids that don't produce the protective sheath.
One of the most important features of the Cattleyas is the fragrance, this usually lost with hybridizing in other genuses is retained in the vast majority of hybrids, which adds to their allure and charm, furthermore with a successful cross the fragrance will evolve.
Cattleyas like good light. However, be smart, the stiff foliage may be very deceptive, and even direct spring sunshine can quickly scorch your orchid if they are not protected from the direct sun. Preferably it will be indirect light or early morning sunshine or late in the evening. Most of the Cattleyas will have a dormant resting period, but this varies from the plant to plant and also to the hybrid. The rule is to watch your plant, and when it is not actively in growth, allow it to remain on the dry side until new growth is seen.
Cattleyas similar to Phalaenopsis orchids produce copious roots, which are a joy when they start growing from the base of the newly formed pseudobulb. They have a tendency to grow sideways and upright above the potting mix, generally in every possible direction, and this is nothing to be worried about.
Watering for the orchids is crucial, because they require both normal watering and misting/humidity when in active growth, however don't overdo it because the plant won't survive in soggy environment. If not sure if the mix is dry enough give it a day or more and then water. Also it will depend on the size of the plant, a seedling size Cattleya will require watering once a week but then a speciment size orchid may require twice a week. When it comes to fertilizing its good to do it on a regular basis especially when in active growth, then use a growth booster and when the flower sheets appears switch to the bloom booster type. Once a month its good to flush the pot with just clean water to get rid of the build up of salts.
Cattleyas should be grown in temperatures from between 12 degrees Celsius to around max. 30 degrees C. There should be a slight temperature drop, especially for mature plants but currently modern hybrids allow to decrease this drop to almost minimum. Also for seedlings the temperatures should be slightly higher during night time, needles to say whatever temperatures you will feel comfortable, your orchid will also.
I want a Cattleya, what now?
Well there is a lot of options because many Nurseries will sell them, it only depends on the time of the year. Try also big supermarkets. However you may want to look on-line on the variates. For Europe and UK, I personally suggest Ray Creek orchids, Orchideen Wichmann, Roellke Orchideen and Schwerter Orchids.
Furthermore have a look on Ebay because you can find there some really, really great and jaw-dropping deals on rare specimens and hybrids!
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Some pictures presented in this article may not belong to me and are a property of their respectable owners.
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